On may 27, 2009, my wife Jean and I started our cross-Canada adventure which ended up taking 83 days and covered all 10 provinces.
To see photos in full screen you can click on photo or underlined text. "X" to exit slideshow and use left arrow to return to blog. Go directly to a province by choosing log entry in list on the right.Underlined items are links to pictures or other web sites.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
The trip begins
If BC wasn't where it is in Canada, it would have to be moved. You couldn't ask for a more dramatic way to start a bike trip. Even now in retrospect, BC is the main reason to want to do such a trip. Definitely wins award for most dramatic scenery in Canada.
Day 1 May 27 Vancouver to Mission 97km
We woke up early and were on the road by 7:30.Took the Lions Gate Bridge to Stanley Park for ritual bike dunk. Re-crossed bridge and followed Marine Drive to Ironworkers Bridge. The path across the bridge is very narrow and made for an unpleasant crossing. Jean managed to have her first crash and bruised an arm.
Followed Highway 7 to Mission. The road followed the Fraser River and we passed many logging operations. The smell of red cedar was everywhere.
Couldn't find a campsite so we stayed at a Best Western Hotel.
Day 2 May 28 Mission to Hope 89km
Beautiful ride to the sound of flowing water caused by melting snow. Our first black bear sighting.
Climbed to top of Allison Pass which proved to be the toughest climb of the whole trip. This was followed by a very welcome 10km downhill to Manning Park Recreational Centre where we stopped for a burger
Day 4 May 30 Manning Park to Keremos 123km
Left camp at 6:15. As we were leaving we were visited by Canada Jays (known as Campground Robbers) who took snacks right out of our hands. Another 15km downhill, made very uncomfortable by the cold early morning start, but we were happy to get some miles in before the sun came up. The 15km downhill was followed by a tough climb to the top of Sunday Summit. We ended up doing 59 km before coffee and breakfast at Princeton. After this tough start to the day we were rewarded by a very beautiful, long downhill
which followed the Similkameeri River all the way to Keremeos. Camped at Eagle RV Park where we enjoyed a much needed shower and a cold beer which the campground owner kindly gave us.We were amused by Road-Runner birds which continually ran by our tent.
Started the day with a great breakfast at Ranch Restaurant in Keremos after which we parted company with Suzi who was heading south to Osoyoos. We headed north on a steady climb to Yellow Lake where the fish are kept alive during the winter by adding air to the water. It was a lovely peaceful spot. We saw many Groundhogs today, we passed one rock where about 20 babies were taking the sun.
Day 6 Jun 1 Peachtown to Newport Beach 81km
Left camp at 6:30. The day began with a stiff climb out of Peachtown and the road was very busy. We stopped in Westbank for breakfast at McDonald's. Here we asked locals about the small road on west side of Lake Okanagan
which would avoid Kelowna and the busy route 97. Got conflicting opinions but decided to risk it anyway. It turned out to be a good choice. It was narrow, windy, up and down and very scenic. We met another biker, John, who turned out to be the guy Suzie had shared a campsite with in Hope. We passed by a logging operation and saw a tugboat hauling logs across the lake. It was a very hot day and after 80 km we were feeling a little tired. We decided to stop instead of pressing on to Larkin.We had a campsite right on the lake with a welcome breeze.
Spaghetti again.
Day 7 Jun 2 Newport Beach to Sicamous 93km
Woke up to a beautiful day and watched the sunrise over the lake while packing up. Left camp at 7:15.
Took back roads to Armstrong and had breakfast. Took 97A to Sicamous where we stopped for a delicious ice cream at Dutchman's Place. Talked to 3 German boys who were hitchhiking across Canada.
The road to Sicamous was lovely, mainly flat. Took highway 1 to Cedar Park Campground about 12km north of Sicamous at Malakwa. The only supplies we could get at the camp store were two cans of Chef Boyardee Ravioli.
A bear showed up at the campsite soon after we checked in. Being the only campers there we had a very restless night.
Day 8 Jun 3 Cedar Park Campsite to Revelstoke 65km
Left camp at 8:00
Visited site of the last spike. We had to go 16km before we found a truck stop where we could get breakfast. After last nights supper we were desperate for some real food. The road was beautiful with views of snow-capped mountains, rushing rivers and sparkling lakes. It was hot again today but every time we passed water flowing down the mountain we received a blast of cool air. We met a young man at the Revelstoke information center. He was doing the cross Canada trip but was going on to our tomorrow nights destination. (Nice to have young legs!) Bought mineral replacement capsules today as we were sweating a lot and were getting cramps. Camped in KOA Campground in Revelstoke.
Wieners and beans for supper.
Day 9 Jun 4 Revelstoke to Canyon Hot Springs 32km
Left camp at 7:30
Warm and sunny again today. Decided to stop for the day at Canyon Hot Springs and have a soak in hot mineral spring water to prepare for the climb to Golden tomorrow. The campsite is surrounded by snow-covered mountains a lovely spot. Probably why we paid $50 for camping and mineral spring soak. On top of this it cost $9 to do a load of laundry and $1 for 3 minutes of hot shower. We met a couple from North Calgary and questioned them about the roads in that area as we are still undecided about what route to take to avoid the city.
Day 10 June 5 Canyon Hot Springs to Golden 122km
Left camp at 5:45
Climbed for 35km to Rogers Pass where we stopped for breakfast. The climb wasn't as bad as we expected - not as difficult as Allison Pass. We were glad we started early as we had to go through 8 snow tunnels which would not have been pleasant if the roads had been busy. We followed Colorado River for 10km and camped in the municipal campground at Golden. The weather took a turn for the worse but we managed to get the tent up before it started to rain. We did groceries and then treated our selves to a meal and a couple of beers at Shanahan's Bar & Grill which was very good but a little noisy.
Today we passed our first time zone and lost 1 hour.
Day 11 June 6 Golden to Lake Louise 92km
Golden was not so golden this morning. The weather forecast was for rain so we decided to leave early.
Looking forward to breakfast as we had bought lots of food last night but to our dismay we discovered that all our supplies had been stolen. We left feeling a little down and on our way out found our lunch bag that looked as if whoever took it played football with it.
We had breakfast in a diner and began our long journey uphill out of Golden. Going through Kicking Horse Pass we saw a herd of horned mountain sheep.
Next came Ten Mile Hill followed by a stretch of road works.
As we entered Yoko Park the wind increased and the temperature plunged. We stopped at Field and decided to stop for the day but the hotels were very expensive and the only Hostel appeared deserted.
A couple told us of a good deal in Lake Louise so we opted to push on.
30km (27 uphill) against bitter cold winds. This turned out to be one of the most difficult days of the whole trip. We had to keep stopping to warm up and felt quite miserable. The hotel was a welcome sight and the hot shower even better.
Treated ourselver to an all-you-can-eat Roast beef dinner. Bob gave up after 4 servings.
Continued in Alberta
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If BC wasn't where it is in Canada, it would have to be moved. You couldn't ask for a more dramatic way to start a bike trip. Even now in retrospect, BC is the main reason to want to do such a trip. Definitely wins award for most dramatic scenery in Canada.
Day 1 May 27 Vancouver to Mission 97km
Followed Highway 7 to Mission. The road followed the Fraser River and we passed many logging operations. The smell of red cedar was everywhere.
Couldn't find a campsite so we stayed at a Best Western Hotel.
Day 2 May 28 Mission to Hope 89km
Left hotel at 7:45 and did 22k before stopping for breakfast. It was a beautiful day so we ate outside and enjoyed the view of snow capped mountains. Took highway 7 all the way to Hope. Lovely road with only two short climbs. We were bothered a little by gravel trucks - their drivers' didn't seem to appreciate our presence on the road. Wonderful views all day. Arrived at Hope at 3:00 and checked in at Coquihalla Campsite . Met Gary and Tug, schoolteachers from Nova Scotia, doing same trip as us. Suzie, a young British girl doing the trip all by herself, joined us later. I am writing this at our campsite sipping on a beer and eating liver sausage, brochette, potato salad, cheese and crackers, which makes me a very happy camper !
Today's weather helped us forget the rain in Vancouver. Bed at 9:30.
Day 3 May 29 Hope to Manning Park 78km
Left camp at 6:20 and had breakfast in Hope. Very tough climbs today made even harder by hot weather.
Beautiful ride to the sound of flowing water caused by melting snow. Our first black bear sighting.
Climbed to top of Allison Pass which proved to be the toughest climb of the whole trip. This was followed by a very welcome 10km downhill to Manning Park Recreational Centre where we stopped for a burger
since there was nowhere to buy provisions. Another 10km downhill after lunch to end day. We camped with Suzie, Gary and Tug at a provinical park with no facilities.
Day 4 May 30 Manning Park to Keremos 123km
Left camp at 6:15. As we were leaving we were visited by Canada Jays (known as Campground Robbers) who took snacks right out of our hands. Another 15km downhill, made very uncomfortable by the cold early morning start, but we were happy to get some miles in before the sun came up. The 15km downhill was followed by a tough climb to the top of Sunday Summit. We ended up doing 59 km before coffee and breakfast at Princeton. After this tough start to the day we were rewarded by a very beautiful, long downhill 
which followed the Similkameeri River all the way to Keremeos. Camped at Eagle RV Park where we enjoyed a much needed shower and a cold beer which the campground owner kindly gave us.We were amused by Road-Runner birds which continually ran by our tent.
Day 5 May 31 Keremos to Peachtown 90km
Started the day with a great breakfast at Ranch Restaurant in Keremos after which we parted company with Suzi who was heading south to Osoyoos. We headed north on a steady climb to Yellow Lake where the fish are kept alive during the winter by adding air to the water. It was a lovely peaceful spot. We saw many Groundhogs today, we passed one rock where about 20 babies were taking the sun.
After Penticton there was a tough climb up to Summerland followed by a stretch of road works that were very nerve wrecking. The road was very busy, narrow, slippery and hilly. We were also being buffeted by a strong wind. The Okanagan valley is a fruit and wine area a lovely part of the world. Tonight we camped at Ted's RV park in Peachland which is a real tourist resort.
Day 6 Jun 1 Peachtown to Newport Beach 81km
Left camp at 6:30. The day began with a stiff climb out of Peachtown and the road was very busy. We stopped in Westbank for breakfast at McDonald's. Here we asked locals about the small road on west side of Lake Okanagan
which would avoid Kelowna and the busy route 97. Got conflicting opinions but decided to risk it anyway. It turned out to be a good choice. It was narrow, windy, up and down and very scenic. We met another biker, John, who turned out to be the guy Suzie had shared a campsite with in Hope. We passed by a logging operation and saw a tugboat hauling logs across the lake. It was a very hot day and after 80 km we were feeling a little tired. We decided to stop instead of pressing on to Larkin.We had a campsite right on the lake with a welcome breeze.Spaghetti again.
Day 7 Jun 2 Newport Beach to Sicamous 93km
Took back roads to Armstrong and had breakfast. Took 97A to Sicamous where we stopped for a delicious ice cream at Dutchman's Place. Talked to 3 German boys who were hitchhiking across Canada.
The road to Sicamous was lovely, mainly flat. Took highway 1 to Cedar Park Campground about 12km north of Sicamous at Malakwa. The only supplies we could get at the camp store were two cans of Chef Boyardee Ravioli.
A bear showed up at the campsite soon after we checked in. Being the only campers there we had a very restless night.
Day 8 Jun 3 Cedar Park Campsite to Revelstoke 65km
Left camp at 8:00
Wieners and beans for supper.
Day 9 Jun 4 Revelstoke to Canyon Hot Springs 32km
Left camp at 7:30
Day 10 June 5 Canyon Hot Springs to Golden 122km
Left camp at 5:45
Climbed for 35km to Rogers Pass where we stopped for breakfast. The climb wasn't as bad as we expected - not as difficult as Allison Pass. We were glad we started early as we had to go through 8 snow tunnels which would not have been pleasant if the roads had been busy. We followed Colorado River for 10km and camped in the municipal campground at Golden. The weather took a turn for the worse but we managed to get the tent up before it started to rain. We did groceries and then treated our selves to a meal and a couple of beers at Shanahan's Bar & Grill which was very good but a little noisy.
Today we passed our first time zone and lost 1 hour.
Day 11 June 6 Golden to Lake Louise 92km
Golden was not so golden this morning. The weather forecast was for rain so we decided to leave early.
Looking forward to breakfast as we had bought lots of food last night but to our dismay we discovered that all our supplies had been stolen. We left feeling a little down and on our way out found our lunch bag that looked as if whoever took it played football with it.
Next came Ten Mile Hill followed by a stretch of road works.
As we entered Yoko Park the wind increased and the temperature plunged. We stopped at Field and decided to stop for the day but the hotels were very expensive and the only Hostel appeared deserted.
A couple told us of a good deal in Lake Louise so we opted to push on.
30km (27 uphill) against bitter cold winds. This turned out to be one of the most difficult days of the whole trip. We had to keep stopping to warm up and felt quite miserable. The hotel was a welcome sight and the hot shower even better.
Treated ourselver to an all-you-can-eat Roast beef dinner. Bob gave up after 4 servings.
Continued in Alberta
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ALBERTA
Day 12 June 7 Lake Louise 0km.
Today we woke up to snow and decided to take our first complete day off and rest. Had buffet breakfast included in room price and ate enough to last most of the day.
One can rent a canoe there for only $50 per hour! We were surprised to see people who were actually fool enough to pay this price and canoe on the lake in this weather. It started snowing heavily so we decided to walk back to the hotel on a hiking path. We were a little nervous because we were told at the hotel that there had been bears sited in the area recently. As a defense we sang “Teddy Bears Picnic” at the top of our voices - no living thing would stay around to listen to that noise. Back at the hotel it we enjoyed a long soak in the hot tub before a Pizza supper.
Day 13 June 8 Lake Louise to Dead Man's Flat 93km.
Left Lake Louise Inn after another hardy breakfast. It was cold so we wore wet gear and booties. Took the 1A - Bow Valley Parkway which turned out to be a great choice. It was a beautiful ride the mountain views (Castle/Vermilon Pass/Storm/Pilot) were all very impressive.
Stopped at Johnson Creek Falls where Jean visited while Bob watched the bikes.
It was an impressive walk on a catwalk beside the fast flowing water. We would have liked to have taken more time on this beautiful stretch of road but the weather was too cold for us to stop for long.
We avoided the town of Banff but the Banff area was very pretty.
Stopped at Canmore Info Centre and the girl there recommended Dead Man's Flat as a good place to stop for the night. We checked in at Big Horn Motel where we got a room with kitchenette and had spaghetti for supper. Nice friendly place.
Day 14 June 9 Dead Man's Flat to Bragg Creek 87km.
Left motel in rain at 7:45
The day was cold and miserable. Highway 1 seemed never ending. We could see the road going on for miles without any sign of human life. Nearest stop for breakfast was a Petro Canada gas station 63km into the day. We decided to abandon highway 1 and head South by highway 22 to Bragg Creek . The cheapest accommodation in town turned out to be a Bed & Breakfast at $200 so we wilderness camped on the shore of the Elbow river. The skies cleared and it turned into a beautiful evening. Bob cooked a packet of something that was called chicken fried rice. Sat by the river watching the sun go down and had a very early night.Day 15 june 10 Bragg Creek to Longview 74km.
Woke up to thick layer of frost on our tent. Packed up a very wet tent and went into village for a hot cup of coffee. Route 22 goes through cattle country. On our right we could see the snow-covered Rockies, and on our left green pastures. The road is rolling with stiff up hills but also some flat patches to rest legs.
Stopped in Black Diamond for lunch at Marv's Classic Soda Shop, a 50's style eatery with swivel stools and a Juke box selection box at every table. Great hamburgers.
Staying tonight at Tails and Trails campsite. The nice lady at the info centre recommended a restaurant she claimed was the best in Alberta. It could have been a slight exaggeration, but it was excellent, with AAA Alberta beef as its' main claim to fame. The clientele was very laid back, with the dress code being mainly T-shirts, jeans and cowboy hats. Beer served in bottles, glass provided on request. Two good meals in one day. We are now well charged for tomorrow's ride which promises to be tough.
Day 16 June 11 Longview to Lundbreck 115km.
Lundbreck is a small scruffy town with a rather rundown hotel, but the room was clean, the shower was hot and the beer was cold and cheap. Had a really good pizza at Lundbreck Pizza.
Day 17 June 12 Lundbreck to Fort MacLeod 70km.
Biked 15km before stopping at Pinchers Creek for breakfast. Arrived at Fort MacLeod at 12:30 and set up tent beside Old Man River at Daisy May campground. We visited the museum of the NWMP. The NWMP were formed in 23/5/1873 to bring order to the canadian West.Today the Rockies faded in the background and we are looking forward to flat roads for a change. There are a lot of wind farms in this area.
Day 18 June 13 Rest day 44km.
Got up early and had bagels and tea for breakfast and then went for a walk along the banks of Old Man River. Went for coffee at A and W before setting off for Head-smashed-in-buffalo-jump, a very impressive tourist site dedicated to the plight of the buffalo and the Plains natives who counted on the buffalo for their survival. Returned to A and W for hamburgers then relaxed in the campground hottub. Day 19 June 14 Fort MacLeod to Grassy Lake 136km.
The Rockies are no longer in site and the plains are flat and go on forever. The watering systems installed by the large corporate wheat farms are incredible. The towns on the route are all tiny and far apart so we have to plan our next few days carefully. Grassy Lake was a great disappointment. There was no place to buy food so supper was a little sparse: soup, bananas and beagles.
The campground was very run down and definitely not recommendable.Day 20 June 15 Grassy Lake to Medicine Hat 93km.
Day 21 June 16 Medicine Hat to Tompkins Saskatchewan 150km.
Left camp at 6:30. Had coffee 37km. down road at Irvine. Today we crossed the border into Saskatchewan. A favorable wind allowed us to make a good distance. We followed the Trans Canada and were pleasantly surprised at how quiet it was. Stopped at Information centre for info and ice cream. Found out that Suzie was now only one day ahead of us.Click here for slideshow
SASKATCHEWAN
We are always asked "how did you overcome the boredom of the prairies ?".
Anyone who asks has never seen Saskatchewan up close. Beautiful rollong roads (no, not flat) incredable skies, friendly people.
Day 22 June 17 Tompkins to Herbert 128km.
Anyone who asks has never seen Saskatchewan up close. Beautiful rollong roads (no, not flat) incredable skies, friendly people.
Day 22 June 17 Tompkins to Herbert 128km.
6:45 start . Biked to Gull Lake for coffee. It’s lovely getting on the road early. Very little traffic and lots of wild life. The road is lined with small natural ponds full of birds of many kinds. Also lots of deer who aren’t very timid. We are again taking the same route as the cross Canada railway and are very impressed at how important they must be to the Western Provinces. We stopped at Swift Current McDonalds for milkshakes (caution: very addictive). It was very hot again today and tonight there is a very stiff wind. The lady who runs the campground we are at raises apacas, a four-legged animal resembling llamas. Bob broke a brake cable today and we don’t have a spare.
Day 23 Herbert to Moosejaw 141km
Woke up early to watch the big red sun creep over the horizon.
With a little crosswind the going was a little tougher than yesterday. We stopped in Chaplin for coffee after 45km . Another 42km later , we stopped in Mortlach for lunch. As we left the restaurant the skies opened and a great thunder and lightening storm started.We managed to shelter for the worst of the storm then donned our wet gear and continued on our way. After another 20km Jean got a flat tire. Instead of fooling around in this miserable weather, Bob decided to install a new tube. Being the rear wheel it took a little longer and being windy and miserable may have contributed to a flawed job that had to be repeated ten minutes later. Because of the unsettled weather, we decided to stay in a motel. After showering, we found out the restaurant was closed and had to get back on our bikes to seek out food. We biked down main street where a big parade was about to start and the street was lined with people. Had an expensive beer in a pub and went to a delicious Thai meal. Rained all night.
Day 24 June 19 Rest day in Moose Jaw
Woke up to a beautiful day so we moved to a campsite. Bob repaired his bike and Jean purchased a swimsuit. Bob bought a hot dog from a street vender who was very talkative and when he heard what we were doing he gave us each a bottle of water.We took a quick walk through Crescent Park before visiting the tunnels. The tunnels were a disappointment and we returned to the campsite.
Day 25 June 20 Moose Jaw to Wayburn 152km
The next 50km went quickly with a good tailwind. The next 30km were in cross and headwinds. By the time we reached Weyburn we were totally exhausted. We were going to stop at Yellow Grass but the campsite had no facilities, so we pressed on to River Park campground. Rained all night.
Day 26 June 21 Rest day in Wayburn
Woke up to find out tent sitting in a puddle of water. The wind was still blowing and in the wrong direction so we decided to take another day off and dry out. Bob's running shoes were soaking wet so we visited Wall Mart to buy a new pair. Spent most of the day reading and sending E-mails. Chinese buffet tonight.
Day 27 June 22 Weyburn to Redvers 166 km
6:00 start today.
The wind has calmed and it looks like a good day.Took highway 13 to Redvers.Although the road is long and straight it is far from boring. We passed hundreds of gas pumping stations. Marshland lines the way, teaming with waterfoul and birds. We did our first 100 mile day today. Finished our day on 45km of new road.(See article - page 1)
(See article - page 2)
Day 28 June 23 Redvers to Souris Manitoba 115km
Woke up at 5:00 to dark skies and favourable heavy winds. As we packed up it started to rain. We did 45km before stopping for breakfast in Reston. Crossed into Manitoba without knowing.
Highway 13 became highway 2 . unpaved shoulder but road not too busy. The crosswinds were so strong they made the wheatfields look like rough seas.
We camped in the nicest municipal campground (Victoria Park) of our whole trip.We were surrounded by geese, ducks and peacocks. We walked across a 102 year old suspensoin bridge over the Souris river. A duck built her nest right next to our tent and promptly filled it with 12 eggs.That must have hurt !
MAINTOBA
Manitoba was not the highlight of our trip. The roads were bad and busy and we passed lots of road repairs.Bob went through his third rear wheel.
Day 29 June 24 Souris to Trehern 127km
Today's journey went well. We had a gentle tailwind to assist us. We passed thru Wawanisa, birthplace of the insurance company. On route we met a biker heading to Florida to visit his mum. His bike and gear were stolen in Regina. Determined to carry on, he purchased a cheap mountain bike and a sleeping bag which he carried slung over the handlebars.We were very impressed by his great attitude. We left him smilling and determined to reach Florida to see his aging Mum. We also ran across a young Montreal Biker (Gaetan) whom we had met earlier in the week. He was hitchhiking back to Montreal due to a knee injury. We are feeling very lucky not to have had these kinds of problems but Bob did discover a broken spoke so we had to stop early for repairs. It had been a nice sunny day but in the evening we got hit by a tremendous thunderstorm. Fortunately we managed to get our tent up and make the bike repairs before the rain began. A nice French lady brought us an apple pie and offered us shelter in her RV. We refused the shelter but enjoyed the apple pie!
Day 30 June 25 Trehern to St. Anne 165km
Woke up to blue skies. Everything was damp again this morning. Stopped for coffee in St. Claude. Highway 2 is a good road, although narrow,we encountered little traffic until about 30km from Winnipeg where we ran into a long area of construction and then the road became very busy. Bob chose this opportunity to have a flat tire. When we picked up the Winnipeg ring road we were able to relax a little on a super wide shoulder.We decided to push on until we reached highway 1. Then Bob got another flat tire Great timing! It wasn't very pleasant trying to fix a flat tire with traffic passing at 110 klm per hour. We finally reached the Trans Canada only to discover it was under construction for 28km. with traffic down to one lane. We pushed on to Dufrean. Our water ran out and were fortunate to meet a kind traffic controller who spared us a bottle.On reaching Dufrean we discovered there was no place to stay so we had to go on to St. Anne. We found a Motel with a restaurant. Today's journey was long and stressful. The roads are still straight and flat but we saw 2 foxes and noticed that we were beginning to see more trees. Another observation, many of the construction workers are female and we are wondering if all the males are in Alaska making their fortunes.
Day 31 June 26 St. Anne to Falcon Lake 105km
This morning we discovered a very nice campsite just a few kilometers past St. Anne which really pissed us off as we could have saved a hotel bill. The Manitoba tourist board campground guide has not impressed us very much.
Today was the most uninteresting biking to date. It started nice and sunny but deteriorated quickly to rain. The Trans Canada started out well but after a short period the shoulder became gravel and the TC became little better than a bad country road. It was a very bumpy ride which was like riding on one long rumble strip. The scenery was boring and made worse by fierce crosswinds. Jean tired quickly after the long day yesterday and Bob had to put up with a very grumpy old bird. Fortunately Bob was very patient (according to Bob). Falcon Lake is a holiday resort. It was our intention to arrive early and enjoy the area. The rain, however, spoiled our well-laid plan and we had to settle for a hotel room. Our room had no hot water so we were upgraded to a better room with patio, lounge area and kitchenette. We went out for hamburger and fries and bought a six-pack for the room. We have been without internet connection for three days for the first time.
Day 32 June 27 Falcon Lake to Kenora Ontario 75km.
It rained all night. We woke up to no water in the room until 10:30. Left hotel at 11:20 under very cloudy skies. We wore our raingear and peddled like mad. Crossed border into Ontario and hit a long patch of construction the going was very difficult, narrow, uneven and dangerous. After the construction the area became more interesting. We passed some nice lakes and saw lots of wild life, including a bunch of vultures snacking on a deer carcass and another fox. One of Bob's tires got a slow leak, he decided to ignore it and race on to Kenora to a bike shop that we found out closed at 5:00. He went on ahead and managed to get there on time and get his rear wheel repaired and tire fixed. Jean got herself lost but all ended well at a Travel Lodge hotel.
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ONTARIO
Today was wet !!!!!!
We biked in terrible conditions , rain and strong winds. We wanted to make it to Dryden but decided to quit at Vermillion Bay. We were soaking wet and a hot shower never felt so good. Our journey today would have been very pretty had it not been for bad weather. we passed many lakes and saw our quota of wildlife.
After cleaning up, we went out for a pizza (it must sound by now that all we ate was pizza, hamburgers and spaghetti) . There were two fishermen in the restaurant and they overheard us talking to the owner. One of them asked "are you Bob ?". The funny story that came out is worth repeating. They had been going from lake to lake fishing and had passed these bikers with a flag on the back of a trailer on one bike (Bob's) with the initials BOB, which actually stand for "beast of burden" , the make of the trailer. After passing us three or four times, his wife was on constant lookout for us. The man requested Bob's autograph to present to his wife to prove he had actually met "BOB".
Fame at last....
Day 34 June 29 Vermillian Bay to Dryden 45km
Only managed 45km before cold and wet drove us into MacDonalds in Dryden. There we found out there was nowhere between Dryden and Ignace, 100km down the road. The decision to stop was easy.
The forcast is not good. We had to turn the heat on in the motel room. Bob repaired all our inner tubes so we are ready to go, nothing to hold us back but the weather.
Day 35 June 30 Dryden to Ignace 107km.
Woke this morning to the same overcast skies, damp and chilly. We left after breakfast at MacDonalds without much enthusiasm for the ride. It drizzled the entire day. This is big time fishing and hunting area. If the weather had been nicer we would have enjoyed the ride - have to come back and try it again. As it was, all we wanted to do is reach our destination and get out of the wet and cold. We got a motel with kitchenette so we at least could have a nice cup of tea.
Day36 July 1 Ignace to Upsala 109km.
Day 37 July 2 Upsala to Kakabeka Falls 115km.
Cars have to pay $5 to park two hours at falls parking.Tonight we are staying at Happy Land RV Park at a cost of $30. We could have bush camped but found ourselves in dire need of washer/dryer.
Day 38 July 3 Kakabeka Falls to Thunder Bay 46km.
Biked into Thunder Bay and straight to Petres Cycle Shop for much needed repairs. Three hours and $533 later we left feeling a little more confident in our bikes. We stopped at the Terry Fox Memorial where there was a lovely view of Lake Superior. Tonight we are at a KOA campground east of Thunder Bay. They gave us a special rate because we were biking ($10 including showers). Bob taught them how to make slush floats. The campground was very busy and the facilities were above average, including a central kitchen with stoves and sinks.Day 39 July 4 Thunder bay to Nipigon 104km.
On the advice of the campground manager, we took the Lakeshore Road and were rewarded with a well paved quiet road for 15km before having to rejoin highway 17. We watched a bear scavange in a garbage bin. The 17 was again pretty rough but eventually improved. After 30km we stopped for breakfast. The rest of the way to Nipigon was relatively easy until the last few km against the wind. We camped at the marina for $25 with no facilities. Met two girls planning to bike from Calgary to Toronto but both having leg problems. Also met a couple racing across Canada with a support vehicle.
Day 40 July 5 Nipigon to Terracne Bay 107km
It was chilly when we woke this morning. Got an early start and the sun came out for a while. Saw a land rover hit a moose. The moose walked away but surely must have died. The land rover was badly damaged and the two young passengers were baldy shaken up.
The weather began to deteriorate and became very overcast and cold. At least we had a tailwind. Encountered major hills today but at least the road was nice and followed shore of Lake Superior most of the way. A power failure prevented us from finding a hot cup of coffee.We checked into a motel in Terrence Bay and had supper there. In the bar we met a bunch of young men seemingly trying to drown there sorrows caused by the recent closing of the local mill where some had worked for 30 years.
Day 41 July 6 Terrance Bay to Dunc Lake 132km
Started at 8:15 this morning. Grey skies and drizzle. Dispite the weather and hills we made good time and stopped at Ney's campground for coffeee after 50km. we asked some men at restaurant if there were places to stay east of Marathon. Getting a positive response, we decided to bypass Marathon and keep on going. Ended up doing more distance than we expected. The hills between Terrance Bay and Marathon were tough at times, but flattened out after Marathon. Very good road with wide shoulder most of the way. Apart from Ney's campground there was nothing between Terrence Bay and Marathon. It's hard to understand the lack of civilization in such a beautiful area. We are staying at Gloria's motel - very good value and excellent restaurant with reasonable prices.
Day 42 July 7 Dunc Lake to Wawa 137km.
We are staying tonight in the Best Northern Motel, the main luxury being an outdoor hottub overlooking the river.
Day 43 July 8 Wawa to Montreal River 104km.
Clearer skies today but still not very warm, good for biking but not so good for camping. We left the motel at 7:45 and biked through Lake Superior Provincial Park. Made a detour to see Agawa Rock Pictorals , Indian rock paintings, many of which are centuries old.
The ride today was beautiful with some superb views of Lake Superior (the largest fresh water lake in the world). We passed some lovely deserted beaches and many smaller lakes. No sigh of human life between our motel and Montreal River. We had to manage the whole day on one snack bar. Our campground is right on the edge of the lake and although it is a little scruffy it's a lovely spot.
Day 44 July 9 Montreal River to Sault Ste. Marie 117km.
Left camp at 8:00
Stopped at the only shop in Montreal River for coffee. The owner of the campground was there with probably all the residents of M.R. (about 6). They were very unfriendly. The owner of the campsite was complaining because he was warned by an inspector that he had to supply a method of hand drying in his facilities.
Two tough hills out of Montreal River, followed by rollong hills, followed by a tough climb into the Sault.
Passed three mile long beach.. Beautiful ride. We stopped at a native craft shop called The Canadian Carver. They have beautiful stuff - just as well we're on bikes. Very friendly place, worth a stop if only for the great ice cream.
We are staying in a KOA campground tonight. It is very expensive but the facilities are good.
Day 45 July 10 Sault Ste. Marie 24km.
Managed to get tent packed up and on the road before it started to rain. Sheltered at MacDonalds. We managed to get from one side of Sault to the other and were chased into a motel by a thunderstorm.
Bob's bike underwent surgery again atVelorution, a great bike shop offering free camping and showers to passing cicylists. You can't miss it - look for big bike on the roof (near Wall Mart). All our gears work again.
Day 46 july 11 Sault Ste. Marie to Blind River 147km.
Left motel at 7:30
Took highway 17a and stopped after 15km at Echo Lake for breakfast. Good roads with gentle ups and downs and a nice tailwind. Stopped at Bruce Mines for milk shakes and Thessalon for groceries. No campsite in Blind River so we carried on another 10km to lake Lauzon campground. It was so windy we spent the evening in our tent reading.
Day 47 July 12 Blind River to Shequiandah 149km.
Left camp at 7:30
Cold this morning. Stopped after 17km for coffee. Sun finally came out. Met up with Suzie in Espanola. Biked together through a couple of storms. Wanted to stop at Little Current but no campgrounds there and had to do another 11km in very strong headwinds, the worst to date. We lucked out and found a very nice campground (Green Acres) and enjoyed a roast beef buffet for $14.95 - delicious !!!
Day 48 July 13 Shequiandah to Bruce Peninsula 78km.
Jean will do this one
Day 49 July 14 Bruce peninsula to Owen Sound 121km.
As route 6 was an awful road, we took what we thought was highway 17 and got completely lost and travelled miles down unmade roads before coming back to the 6. The rest of the way into Owen Sound wasn't much better. Got completely lost in Owen Sound and ended up in the municipal campground (Harrison Lake). Day 50 July 15 Owen Sound to Angus 108km.
Took route 26 to Meaford (very pretty town with nice harbor) on Georgian Bay. Had breakfast at Suzies Restaurant. Continued along 26 to Wasaga Beach then took to 10 to Angus.
Nice ride along the shore of Georgion Bay. The 26 from Owen Sound to Meaford was pretty hilly but after breakfast it was pretty flat and we were surprised because we expected big hills. Hit headwinds coming down the 10 so we had to stop earlier than expected and found a motel because rain was forcast. Had chinese buffet (they must hate hungry bikers) and slept for 9 hours.
Day 51 july 16 Angus to Uzbridge 100km.
Took 5Th line from Angus to 5Th Sideroad to 27 to 2nd line to 89 Fennell South and 4th to Bradford (milkshakes at MacDonalds). Followed signs to Mount Albert and ended the day with a few short but steep climbs into Uxbridge and finally to Bob's sister's place for beer, supper, ice cream, movie and early bed - nice.....
Day 52-53 July 17-18 Rest (?) in Uxbridge
Jean will di this
Day 54 July 19 Uxbridge to Trent River 124km.
Left Uxbridge with new legs after two days of much needed rest. Our journey to Peterborough was very pleasant. Took highway 8 from Uxbridge and then highway 7A to Cavan, then headed north to Landsdown Road which took us all the way through Peterborough and out to highway 7 to Norwood. At Norwood we took 45 south then 42 to Trent River. We camped at Red Setter Resort (when you see the word "resort" the price goes up - $37 for camping, not including showers. We think it was a down payment on the land).
Day 55 July 20 Trent River to Silver Lake Provincial Park 122km.
Day 56 July 21 Silver Lake to Ottawa 155km.
Left campground and stopped for coffee at Perth. Here we made a big mistake by not looking closely enough at the map and got the false idea the 7 west went to Smith Falls. We stayed on 7 and ended up heading towards Carlton Place. The road was getting busy so we went to Blacks Corners and then Ashten. Took #3 to #5 then south to #12 to Prince of Wales Drive where we had to go south again to Manotick in order to cross the river. Followed #8 to #27. At Leitrim we took Bank Street to Adam Airport Inn. Chinese buffet for supper. Jean has sore leg, hopefully just fatigue.
Day 57 July 22 Ottawa to Chatham, Quebec 116km.
Left hotel later than usual (9:00) and retraced our steps to Leitrim. Took 14 to Carlsbad Springs, 26 to Cheney and highways 2 and 9 to Plantagenet. Stopped at a hot dog stand for lunch. Ever though we were still in Ontario, everyone was speeking french, not a problem since Bob is fluent. Took 17 towards Hawkesbury. It wasn't too busy but cars were passing very fast so we took 11 down to L'Orignal. There we took 24 into Hawkesbury, a nice road by the river with nice houses and gardens. Today it drizzled on and off throughout the day but for the most past the roads were good and fairly flat. At one point we were brought to a halt by a flock of wild turkeys on the road. We crossed the bridge into Quebec and stopped at the info centre wehre we were told there was no rain in the forecast for tonight so we decided to camp at Chatham.
To be continued......
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QUEBEC
We were looking forward to arriving in Quebec because it is familiar territory and we expected to find a lot
of bicycle paths. We were not disapointed. The Route Verte system of bicycle paths throughout the province is very impressive.
A trip down memory lane today. We had headwinda all day but didn't really notice much. Went through St. Andre where we lived for 17 years. Not much changed. The road to Oka was newly paved with bicycle path all the way. Went through native reserve (Kanasataki) and counted 36 cigarette booths - rather a lot for a population of 1,100. At Oka took ferry to Como. Continued along the lakeshore to Vaudreuil. Stopped to watch para surfers - looks like fun. Met Donna and John at Smoke Meat Pete's (best smoke meat anywhere) for lunch. Followed bike path all the way to Ste. Anne de Belleview then bike friendly roads all the way to the Lachine Canal. Signs all along the road : "IF YOU ARE IN A HURRY, TAKE THE HIGHWAY". Stopped to see our old house on Lakebreeze Avenue in Pointe Claire we had left over 20 years ago. The bike paths through Lachine and down to Old Montreal were very impressive and loaded with bikers. Found our way using GPS to Emma's (Bob's daughter) place for the night.Day 59 July 24 Rest day
Day 60 July 25 Montreal to Bertierville 110 km.
Day 61 July 26 Bretierville to Trois Revieres 63km.
We didn't know it could rain that hard. We waited a while before departing but it didn't make any difference.
We biked in heavy rain most of the way. We had to shelter for a while from the thunder and lightening in the bay of a garage. we met another biker heading for Quebec City who advised us to head to Old Quebec via bike paths all the way and take the ferry to south shore. Obviously, we are in a motel tonight. We went to eat at Buffet des Continets and had the most incredable buffet we have ever seen. $14.95 and they had just about anything you could possibly want. When we left there was a lineup of at least 100 people waiting for tables. (Situated in Carfour Trois Revieres).
Day 62 july 27 Trois Revieres to St. Augustin de Desmaures 120km.
Followed Route 138 Le Chemin du Roi (bike Route verte # 5) along the St. Lawrence River. Pretty villages, beautiful gardens, great views and, in every village, a hugh stone church.
Day 63 July 28 St. Augustin to St-Jean-Port-Joli 129km.
Day 64 July 29 St. Jean to Rivieres de Loup 91km.
Breakfast at La Pocatiere. Beautifull ride along St. Lawrence. Bob's cousin Claude met us and rode into Reviere du Loup with us. arrived at his house at 2:30 and enjoyed being spoiled for the rest of the day. Aunt Claire, Madeline and Natalie (Claude's daughter) joined us for supper.
Day 65 July 30 Reviere du Loup to De la Republique Provincial Park, Edmonston, N.B. 128km.
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NEW BRUNSWICK
Day 66 July 31 Edmonston to Grand Falls 74km.
Left campsite with very wet tent. Followed bike path into Edmonston. Woman at information booth advised us to take Route 144 to Grand Falls, which we did. Stopped for breakfast after 20km. The road then followed the St. John River - nice rolling hills and nice valley. Decided to stay in Grand falls since rain had started again. Stayed at Hill Top Motel right next to the falls.
Day 67 August 1 Grand Falls to Woodstock 126km.
Followed St. John river along nice rolling hills, some quite steep. Passed longest covered covered bridge at Heartland.
Camped in Woodstock. Chinese buffet again.
Day 68 August 2 Woodstock to Fredericton 123km.
On the road at 8:00. The river was beautiful and still. we stopped at Nackawic, home to the world's largest axe . Had a sub and much needed coffee. Followed Route 105 'till we picked up a road crossing the river 24km from Fredericton, where we picked up Route 102. The campground we had planned to stay at was too far out of the way so we decided to continue to the tourist office and booked a room at the Skyline Motel. We had supper at a pub in Fredericton then went in search of our motel which was a little difficult to find. At the motel we spoke to some construction workers. They were from Montreal and had good old Quebec beer which they shared with us.
Day 69 August 3 Fredericton to Coles Island 91km.
Followed river again today. First 50km were very flat, then rolling hills. Most of the day was under cloudy skies. It rained while we were having breakfast but cleared a little and even saw the sun perioderically.
Camping at the river Canaan on nice quiet site. Had beer with friendly family from Moncton. Kids were all excited because they were going to an AC/DC concert the following day.
Day 70 August 4 Coles Island to Perlee Beach, Shediac 130km.
The river was beautiful in early morning sunrise, mist rising from water as family of geese tookm off. We took Route 112 to Salesbury, a long ride of 65km. before coffee. From Salesbury took Route 106 to Moncton and the 134 to Shediac. Camped in the worst Provincial Park ever. Went to Perlee Beach for swim - a real zoo. Biked to restaurant for supper. Rude neighbours stayed up drinking 'till 4:00. Bob's tea making in the morning must have woken them up as the post seemed much noisier than usual.
Day 71 August 5 Parlee Beach to Cumberland Cove, PEI 83km.
The morning started badly when we discovered we hat come 5km only to find out the road was closed and completely impassable. We had to go back and take highway 15 to bypass the construction. The wind was very strong. We got back to 133 then 15 then 955 because Jean wanted to see Murry Beach. The 955 was a good road, mainly along the coast. Took shuttle over Confederation Bridge and the driver told us we were the first cross-country cyclists of the year. On PEI we took highway 10 and camped at Cumberland Cove, a small peaceful campsite right on the ocean. The tide was out and Jean took a long walk on the red sand beach.
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Day 67 August 1 Grand Falls to Woodstock 126km.
Followed St. John river along nice rolling hills, some quite steep. Passed longest covered covered bridge at Heartland.
Camped in Woodstock. Chinese buffet again.
Day 68 August 2 Woodstock to Fredericton 123km.
Day 69 August 3 Fredericton to Coles Island 91km.
Camping at the river Canaan on nice quiet site. Had beer with friendly family from Moncton. Kids were all excited because they were going to an AC/DC concert the following day.
Day 70 August 4 Coles Island to Perlee Beach, Shediac 130km.
Day 71 August 5 Parlee Beach to Cumberland Cove, PEI 83km.
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